Breaking In New Heels: The Complete Guide

There's a particular kind of optimism in buying new heels—the anticipation of how they'll look, where you'll wear them, how they'll complete your favourite outfit. But that optimism can quickly fade when those beautiful new shoes leave you hobbling after an hour. Breaking in new heels properly before their first real outing is the difference between painful blisters and comfortable, confident wear.

This guide covers proven methods to soften and stretch new heels, preparing them to work with your feet rather than against them.

Why Breaking In Matters

New shoes, particularly leather ones, are stiff and unyielding. The materials haven't yet softened to conform to your unique foot shape. Areas that will eventually be comfortable may initially rub and press uncomfortably. The breaking-in process accelerates the natural softening that would occur over time, preventing the painful blisters and discomfort that happen when stiff shoes meet soft feet.

Materials That Need Breaking In

Not all materials require the same breaking-in approach:

• Leather: Most responsive to breaking in; softens and moulds beautifully with proper treatment
• Patent leather: The coating is less flexible; may take longer and remain stiffer than regular leather
• Suede: Generally softer from the start; requires gentler breaking-in methods
• Fabric: May not stretch much; focus on softening rather than stretching
• Synthetic materials: Often don't stretch significantly; may need to accept the fit as-is

Method 1: Gradual Wear at Home

The gentlest and most foolproof method is simply wearing your new heels around the house for short periods before their debut.

The Process

1. Put on the heels with the socks or hosiery you'll wear with them
2. Wear them around the house for 15-30 minutes
3. Walk on various surfaces—carpet, hard floors, stairs
4. Repeat daily, gradually increasing wear time
5. Continue until the heels feel comfortable for your intended wear duration

Why This Works

Your body heat and natural movement slowly soften the materials, while the limited duration prevents serious blisters. You can also immediately remove the shoes if any area causes significant discomfort, making this the lowest-risk approach.

Method 2: The Thick Sock Method

For slightly faster results on leather heels, wearing them with thick socks accelerates the stretching process.

The Process

1. Put on the thickest socks you own (fuzzy or wool work well)
2. Squeeze your feet into the heels—yes, they'll be tight
3. Wear around the house for 15-20 minutes
4. Use a hairdryer on medium heat to warm tight spots while walking
5. Continue wearing as the shoes cool
6. Repeat as needed

Why This Works

The thick socks force the material to stretch beyond normal, while the heat makes the material more pliable. When you later wear the heels with normal hosiery, they'll feel roomy and comfortable.

Method 3: Professional Stretching

For significant stretching needs or expensive shoes you don't want to risk damaging, professional cobbler stretching is the safest option.

What Cobblers Can Do

• Stretch overall width or length (within limits—about half a size maximum)
• Stretch specific problem areas (like bunion spots)
• Apply professional stretching solutions that won't damage the material
• Use industrial stretching equipment for precise results

When to Choose Professional Stretching

Consider a cobbler for:

• Expensive or designer heels
• Delicate materials you're afraid to damage
• Shoes that need targeted stretching in specific areas
• When at-home methods haven't worked

Method 4: Stretching Sprays and Tools

Commercial products can assist the breaking-in process, especially for leather shoes.

Stretching Sprays

Leather stretching sprays work by temporarily softening the material, making it more pliable and easier to stretch. To use:

1. Spray the inside of the shoe, focusing on tight areas
2. Put on the heels while still damp
3. Walk around until the shoes dry
4. Repeat as needed

Shoe Stretchers

Shoe stretchers are adjustable devices you insert into shoes overnight to gradually widen them. They're particularly useful for:

• Stretching width without wearing the shoes
• Targeting specific problem areas with attachable bunion plugs
• Maintaining stretch between wearings

Targeting Problem Areas

Often, only specific parts of a new heel cause discomfort. Targeted treatment is more effective than overall stretching.

Stiff Backs (Heel Counter)

The back of the shoe rubbing your heel is a common issue:

• Gently bend the heel counter back and forth with your hands
• Use a shoe-stretching tool specifically designed for this area
• Apply leather conditioner to soften the material
• Wear with heel grips to reduce friction while breaking in

Tight Toe Boxes

For cramped toes:

• Use the thick sock method focusing on the front of the shoe
• Insert a shoe stretcher with a wide toe setting overnight
• Consider professional stretching for significant width issues

Rubbing Straps

Straps that rub can be addressed by:

• Applying leather conditioner to soften the strap
• Wrapping the strap around a spoon handle overnight to curve it to your foot shape
• Wearing with moleskin protection while breaking in

Protecting Yourself During Break-In

Even with careful breaking in, protect your feet during the process:

• Blister prevention: Apply anti-blister balm to friction-prone areas
• Moleskin: Cover any hot spots before they become blisters
• Bandages: Keep them handy for immediate protection if needed
• Alternate days: Don't wear new heels on consecutive days during break-in

When Breaking In Won't Work

Some shoes simply can't be broken in to the point of comfort:

• Shoes that are fundamentally too small (more than about half a size)
• Shapes that don't match your foot anatomy
• Very cheap shoes with rigid synthetic materials
• Shoes where the problem is heel height or pitch rather than material stiffness

If a shoe causes pain in the store, it's unlikely to become comfortable. Return or exchange rather than hoping breaking in will solve a fundamental fit issue.