A beautiful pair of heels is an investment, and like any investment, it requires proper care to maintain its value. With the right maintenance routine, you can extend the life of your heels by years, keeping them looking pristine through countless wears. Whether you've splurged on designer stilettos or found affordable favourites, these care and maintenance techniques apply to all heels.
This comprehensive guide covers everything from routine cleaning to emergency repairs, organised by material type and situation. Bookmark this page—you'll return to it often.
Essential Care Supplies to Keep on Hand
Before diving into specific techniques, let's assemble your heel care kit. Having these supplies readily available means you can address issues immediately, before they become permanent problems.
- Soft cloths: Microfibre cloths are ideal for most cleaning tasks
- Soft-bristled brush: A clean, soft toothbrush works well for detailed cleaning
- Leather conditioner: Essential for genuine leather heels
- Suede brush and eraser: Specific tools for suede materials
- Protective spray: Water and stain repellent suitable for your shoe materials
- Shoe trees or stuffing paper: For maintaining shape during storage
- Magic eraser: Excellent for cleaning white soles and rubber components
Apply protective spray to new heels before wearing them for the first time. This creates a barrier against water and stains, making future cleaning much easier.
Cleaning by Material Type
Different materials require different approaches. Using the wrong cleaning method can cause more damage than the original stain, so always identify your heel's material before proceeding.
Genuine Leather
Leather is durable but requires regular conditioning to prevent drying and cracking. For routine cleaning, wipe with a slightly damp cloth to remove surface dust and dirt. For deeper cleaning:
- Remove loose dirt with a soft brush
- Apply a small amount of leather cleaner to a cloth (not directly to the shoe)
- Gently work the cleaner into the leather using circular motions
- Wipe away excess cleaner with a clean, damp cloth
- Allow to dry naturally, away from direct heat
- Apply leather conditioner to restore moisture and suppleness
- Buff with a soft cloth for shine
Suede and Nubuck
Suede requires special attention as it's more delicate than smooth leather. Never use water on suede—it can cause permanent water marks and damage the nap.
- Use a suede brush to gently remove surface dirt, brushing in one direction
- For scuff marks, use a suede eraser with gentle pressure
- Stubborn marks may require a specialised suede cleaner
- Once clean, brush the entire surface to restore the nap
- Apply suede protector spray in a well-ventilated area
If suede gets wet, stuff the shoes immediately with paper and let them dry naturally. Once dry, brush the nap to restore the texture. Never use heat to speed drying—it can shrink and damage the material.
Patent Leather
The shiny coating on patent leather makes it relatively easy to clean but prone to scuffing and colour transfer. For routine care:
- Wipe with a damp cloth to remove fingerprints and smudges
- Use a patent leather cleaner for stubborn marks
- Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to restore shine and prevent cracking
- Store away from dark materials to prevent colour transfer
Fabric and Satin
Fabric heels, including satin evening shoes, are the most delicate and stain-prone. Prevention is particularly important with these materials.
- Spot clean only—never soak fabric shoes
- Use a fabric cleaner specifically designed for delicate materials
- For satin, consider professional cleaning for significant stains
- Store in individual dust bags to prevent snagging and dust accumulation
Proper Storage Techniques
How you store your heels between wears significantly impacts their longevity. Poor storage leads to creasing, shape loss, dust damage, and material degradation.
Daily Storage
After each wear, allow your heels to air out before storing. This prevents moisture buildup that can lead to odour and material breakdown. Insert shoe trees or stuff with acid-free tissue paper to maintain shape, particularly important for leather and suede heels that can develop permanent creases.
Long-Term Storage
For heels you wear infrequently:
- Clean thoroughly before storing
- Apply appropriate conditioner (for leather) or protector spray
- Insert shoe trees or stuff firmly with paper
- Place in individual dust bags or wrap in acid-free tissue
- Store in original boxes if possible, or in clear shoe boxes for visibility
- Keep in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight
- Never stack heels on top of each other
- Avoid storing in plastic bags (traps moisture)
- Don't store in extreme temperatures (attic, car)
- Never leave heels in direct sunlight (causes fading)
- Don't store with heels touching other shoes (causes scuffs)
Heel and Sole Maintenance
The heel tip and sole bear the brunt of wear and require regular attention. Neglecting these areas leads to damaged heels and slippery, unsafe shoes.
Heel Tips
The small rubber or plastic cap at the bottom of stilettos and thin heels wears down with use. Once worn through to the metal core, walking becomes noisy and the exposed metal can damage floors. Check heel tips regularly and replace before they wear completely through. Most cobblers offer quick, inexpensive heel tip replacement.
Sole Care
Leather soles benefit from regular conditioning with a leather sole conditioner—this prevents drying and extends life. For slippery soles, consider having a cobbler add rubber half-soles for better traction, particularly useful for heels worn on smooth floors.
Common Issues and Quick Fixes
Sometimes problems arise that need immediate attention. Here are solutions for common heel emergencies:
Scuff Marks
For leather: Apply matching shoe polish or use a leather crayon to fill and disguise the mark. For patent: Try a magic eraser with gentle pressure. For suede: Use a suede eraser, then brush to restore nap.
Water Stains
For leather: Dampen the entire shoe evenly with a cloth, then stuff and allow to dry naturally. This blends the water mark. For suede: This is challenging—professional cleaning may be necessary for significant marks.
Loose Heel
A heel that feels wobbly or loose is a safety hazard. Stop wearing the shoes immediately and take them to a cobbler. Don't attempt DIY repair with glue—professional repair ensures proper strength and alignment.
Some repairs require professional attention: broken heels, significant sole damage, torn straps, and major stains on delicate materials. A skilled cobbler can often restore heels you might have thought were beyond saving. The cost of repair is almost always less than replacement.
Creating a Care Routine
The best maintenance is preventive and consistent. Establish these habits:
- After each wear: Wipe down, air out, insert shoe trees
- Monthly: Deep clean frequently worn pairs, check for wear on tips and soles
- Seasonally: Condition leather, apply protector sprays, rotate heel tips
- Annually: Assess your collection, repair what's needed, clean storage area
Proper care isn't just about maintaining appearances—it's about respecting your investment and ensuring your heels remain safe and comfortable to wear. A well-maintained pair of quality heels can last decades, developing a beautiful patina that only adds to their character.