The world of heels extends far beyond simply "high" or "low." Each heel type has distinct characteristics that affect not only the aesthetic of the shoe but also its comfort, stability, and suitability for different occasions. Understanding these differences empowers you to make informed choices and build a versatile heel collection that serves you well across all areas of your life.
This comprehensive guide explores each major heel type, explaining what defines them, when they work best, and who they're ideal for.
Stiletto Heels
The stiletto is perhaps the most iconic heel type, named after a slender Italian dagger. Characterised by a thin, high heel typically ranging from 5cm to 15cm, stilettos create the most dramatic leg-lengthening effect of any heel type.
Defining Characteristics
- Very thin heel, often just 1-2cm in diameter at the base
- Heights typically start at 5cm and can exceed 15cm
- Creates an elegant, elongated silhouette
- Requires more skill and balance to walk in
Best For
Evening events, formal occasions, special dinners, photo opportunities, situations where walking distance is limited. Stilettos pair beautifully with cocktail dresses, evening gowns, and sleek professional attire.
Consider If
You're comfortable in heels and prioritise dramatic style over maximum comfort. Stilettos are not ideal for beginners, extended walking, or uneven surfaces.
The modern stiletto emerged in the 1950s, made possible by technological advances in steel reinforcement. Before this innovation, high heels had to be thicker to support weight without breaking.
Block Heels
Block heels feature a chunky, square or rectangular heel that provides significantly more stability than stilettos. They've cycled in and out of fashion but have remained consistently popular for their combination of style and comfort.
Defining Characteristics
- Thick, solid heel that may be square, rectangular, or slightly tapered
- Available in all heights from low to high
- Provides excellent stability due to larger surface area
- Often more comfortable for extended wear
Best For
Work environments, all-day events, weddings where you'll be on your feet, dancing, cobblestone streets, and any situation requiring extended wear. Block heels bridge the gap between style and practicality beautifully.
Consider If
You want the height of heels with added stability, or if you're newer to heel wearing. Block heels are forgiving of less-than-perfect walking technique.
Wedge Heels
Wedges feature a sole that extends from the back of the shoe to the middle or front, creating a wedge shape beneath the foot. This provides exceptional stability while allowing for significant height.
Defining Characteristics
- Continuous sole from heel to toe (or heel to ball of foot)
- No gap between heel and forefoot
- Weight distributed across entire sole
- Can achieve significant height with good comfort
Best For
Outdoor events (weddings, garden parties), beach settings, summer wear, casual elegance, all-day comfort. Wedges are particularly practical for grass, sand, and other soft surfaces where thin heels would sink.
Consider If
You want maximum stability with height, prefer a more casual aesthetic, or need heels for outdoor settings. Wedges often feel like the easiest heel type to wear.
- Most stable: Wedges (continuous sole support)
- Very stable: Block heels (large surface area)
- Moderate stability: Chunky heels, cone heels
- Least stable: Stilettos (small contact point)
Platform Heels
Platforms feature a thick sole under the ball of the foot, raising the entire front of the shoe. This can be combined with any heel type and effectively reduces the pitch of the foot, making high heels more comfortable.
Defining Characteristics
- Elevated sole under the forefoot (typically 1-5cm)
- Reduces effective heel height by the platform measurement
- Can be paired with stilettos, blocks, or wedges
- Creates a dramatic, fashion-forward look
Best For
Making a style statement, achieving extreme height more comfortably, evening wear, parties, creative or fashion-forward settings. Platforms are popular in club wear and on runways.
Consider If
You love height but find very high heels uncomfortable, or if you're drawn to bold, statement footwear. Platforms require attention when walking as the added sole height changes foot sensation.
Kitten Heels
Kitten heels are short, slender heels typically under 5cm. Originally designed as a "training heel" for young women, they've become a sophisticated style choice prized for their combination of elegance and practicality.
Defining Characteristics
- Low height, typically 3-5cm
- Thin to medium-width heel
- Elegant, understated appearance
- Minimal impact on posture and walking
Best For
Professional environments, all-day wear, those who prefer subtle elegance, anyone who finds higher heels uncomfortable. Kitten heels work beautifully with midi skirts, tailored trousers, and classic dresses.
Consider If
You want the polished look of heels without significant height or discomfort. Kitten heels are often recommended by podiatrists as the safest heel option for regular wear.
Cone Heels
Cone heels are circular and taper from a wider top to a narrower base, like an inverted ice cream cone. They offer more stability than stilettos while maintaining an elegant profile.
Defining Characteristics
- Circular heel that tapers downward
- Wider at the top (where it meets the shoe) than the base
- Available in various heights
- Provides moderate stability
Best For
Those who like the look of thinner heels but want more stability than a stiletto provides. Cone heels work well for professional settings and semi-formal events.
Spool Heels
Spool heels (also called louis heels or pompadour heels) curve inward in the middle and flare out at the base, creating an hourglass or spool shape. They have a vintage, classic aesthetic.
Defining Characteristics
- Curved shape, narrower in the middle
- Flares out at both top and bottom
- Often associated with vintage and bridal styles
- Provides good stability due to flared base
Best For
Vintage-inspired outfits, bridal wear, formal occasions with a classic aesthetic, anyone who appreciates retro styling. Spool heels pair beautifully with 1950s-inspired dresses and classic silhouettes.
Ankle Boot Heels
While technically a shoe style rather than a heel type, heeled ankle boots deserve mention. They combine heels with ankle coverage, providing additional support and a complete look that works with many outfits.
Defining Characteristics
- Boot upper that covers the ankle
- Can feature any heel type (block, stiletto, etc.)
- Provides ankle support and warmth
- Creates a complete, polished look
Best For
Cooler weather, transitional seasons, creating a complete look without visible ankle, pairing with cropped trousers or midi skirts. The ankle support often makes these feel more stable than equivalent pumps.
A well-rounded heel collection might include: kitten heels for daily wear, block heels for work and events, wedges for summer and outdoor occasions, and stilettos for special evening events. This covers most situations you'll encounter.
Choosing the Right Heel Type for Your Needs
With so many options, how do you choose? Consider these factors:
Your Experience Level
Beginners should start with more stable options: wedges, block heels, or kitten heels. As you develop strength and confidence, you can branch into less stable styles.
The Occasion
Match heel type to the event. Outdoor events suit wedges and block heels. Formal evening occasions work with stilettos. Professional settings pair well with kitten heels or moderate block heels.
Your Lifestyle
If you're on your feet all day, prioritise comfort-focused styles. If you're primarily seated, you have more flexibility to choose based on aesthetics alone.
Your Personal Style
Some heel types naturally complement certain aesthetics. Vintage lovers gravitate toward spool heels; minimalists might prefer clean block heels; fashion-forward dressers often embrace platforms.
There's no single "best" heel typeβonly the best heel for a particular situation and individual. Understanding what each type offers allows you to make choices that serve both your style goals and your comfort needs.